From the kitchen
The first tomatoes, and the menu they changed
Why the arrival of one warm crate moved three dishes and gave the summer menu its centre.
The first tomatoes arrived warm from the van, fragrant enough to change the plan before the crate reached the kitchen. We moved them from garnish to center: clear tomato water at the opening, slow-roasted fruit beside brill, and skins fermented for a sharp, savory dressing.



